Nice men’s shoes are immediately noticeable. They have real leather uppers. Little details like waxed laces and stacked soles also make a big difference. Nice shoes invite compliments, I think, because we rarely see men wearing them. People who notice quality shoes glance down. I find that women especially give compliments and ask questions, occasionally … Continue reading A Female’s Take On Men’s Shoes
When a tailor or brand "collaborates" with an influencer what does that mean? Almost anything. It could mean that the tailor and influencer design a product together to sell. It could also mean the tailor gives a product (or money) to the influencer to promote their brand on Instagram -- i.e. paid for content. The … Continue reading What Is “Collaboration?”
This is one angle of an opinion piece. Instagram can bring a lot of positive things. Artisans can share and learn from each other. Followers can DM artisans. I felt excited when I first joined Instagram. In this awakening I discovered quality and scores of new, remarkable craftsmen. You'll be familiar with the sartorial world … Continue reading The Problem With Instagram
Style, especially fast-fashion is designed to become obsolete. Looks change every season. What's "in' is completely different from seasons prior. Companies increase consumer spending through planned obsolescence. Marketed goods become purposely broken or outdated in buyers' minds. Imagine many shades of blue. Why sell a classic navy shirt when dissatisfied customers can buy 2, 3, … Continue reading Fashion’s Planned Obsolescence
I recently learned that Forever 21 -- one of the largest retail stores near my old home -- permanently closed during covid-19. It wasn't a surprise. That Forever 21 had crushing rent. In the millions from what I recall. Many large brands face the same insolvency now crippling J. Crew and Neiman Marcus. Covid-19 completely … Continue reading What Will Happen to Clothes Post Covid-19?
With spring cleaning, people are realizing they have inordinate amounts of clothes. Most people (men and women) build too large and inferior wardrobes. We quickly lose interest in expendable clothes. A $6.99 beanie (or even a $70 quality one you don't wear) holds no meaningful ethics. Menswear enthusiasts are especially prone to excessive spending. Imagine … Continue reading My Take on Building a Wardrobe
I've always enjoyed the short-fire questionnaire concluding Gentleman's Gazette interviews. Apart from the first question, I came up with a new set of questions. By all means comment with your own preferences! Oxfords or derbies? Oxfords Casual, smart casual, or formal? Smart casual Wool or cashmere? Cashmere Which Instagram dresser impresses you most? Zing Chen … Continue reading Short Quiz!
In one memorable Seinfeld episode Jerry buys a brown suede jacket.* It looks perfect on him, style and fit. The jacket cost over a thousand dollars -- but Jerry relishes it, even wearing the jacket over his pajamas. He tells his friend George Costanza: Jerry: This jacket has completely changed my life. When I leave … Continue reading Clothes That Click
We hear this bark by fashion houses, Instagram, even the average dresser. Heck, academics like Judith Butler (who argued that gender is performative) have built their careers on this point. It's a popular ideology that can be traced back to Edward Bernays, Sigmund Freud's lesser-known nephew. Bernays was a 20th-century public relations figurehead hired by … Continue reading “Clothing is Expression”
Or at least, supports it and makes it a more welcome friend to the public. I sometimes come across craftsmen reluctant to share techniques or accept students. Or salespeople wary of answering sartorial inquiries. Conversely, this can hurt businesses and their craft. Crafts survive on patronage. Without public appreciation and commissions, artisans cease to be. … Continue reading Opinion: How Transparency Behooves the Crafts