Ciardi Sports Jacket

In London, I met a grinning Enzo Ciardi to commission a first bespoke sports jacket.

Prior to that I spent one to two years considering different house cuts and shoulder styles.

Researching took a lot of time. Especially since I’m still fairly new to bespoke tailoring.

You find your preferences shifting as you read and discover new, subtle options.

Like swelled edges. Or buttoning points.

I chose Sartoria Ciardi after seeing Enzo’s work on Simon Crompton’s gun club tweed jacket. Neapolitan-style shoulders are also more suitable for California lifestyle.

Enzo nailed the natural shoulder and overall proportion on Simon’s jacket.

For my jacket, I requested:

  • single breasted, notched lapel
  • swelled edges
  • completely natural shoulders, no ripples
  • three roll two button
  • 2 patch hip pockets
  • regular breast pocket
  • 1 button sleeve, update: with dark-brown horn buttons
  • double vents
  • update: Brown lining, to match the jacket.

Some stills of Enzo drafting my pattern:

Ciardi pattern 3

Ciardi pattern 2

Ciardi pattern 8

Enzo took several measurements during consultation. We discussed the jacket style, which was going to be fitted and styled like a men’s jacket, but for my measurements.

So no feminine flairs or proportions.

Luckily, choosing the cloth was easy.

I felt Simon’s Escorial tweed back in London and really agreed with the fabric.

The Escorial tweed is made with Joshua Ellis. The wool feels soft with interesting texture. In good coincidence, this new run will be harder and less fluffy.

I initially chose oatmeal but decided that brown tweed will be a nice campus jacket and suitable for run-around journalism. The ensemble would look particularly smart paired with grey/green flannels.

The next steps will be Enzo ordering the cloth and my visiting London or Pitti Uomo for a first fitting.

Enzo’s consistent communication is a big relief — he’s one of the quickest email replies.

I’m anticipating our next traveling days, whenever that will be!

Ciardi pattern 6

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