This post will focus on Crockett & Jones’ ladies line and my experience with their 617 last.
Crockett & Jones is expanding their RTW (ready-to-wear) women’s collection, headed by fifth-generation family member Philippa Jones, who works on design and implementation.
Their women’s line consists of a range of feminine, classic, and rugged styles. Many styles are now being constructed from their 617 last, which is an elegant almond shape.
After a failed attempt at ordering online, I returned my Florence black cap-toes in person to their store on Jermyn street in London, and opted to exchange them for the Angel suede chukka boots. The shoes fit well in store, and I hoped to order their jodhpurs and oxfords in the future.
After a year of wearing these boots, I have found the fit to be quite uncomfortable (especially when I am walking a lot). I was measured as a 55C at their store on Jermyn street. Originally, the length of my foot fit well. But what happens when you’re walking is that the front half of your foot juts forward, requiring more space at the front of your shoe.
Measurement-wise, there should have been about 25 mm (.98 inches) of space above my longest toe to accommodate that movement.
Returning to C&J New York, I tried the size 60C in their Holly jodhpur, which fit better length-wise, but the fit was too roomy for my long heel. I called it a day, and concluded that the last would not be adequate for my foot.
In terms of quality, one cannot go wrong with Crockett & Jones. I am especially hopeful about C&J’s women’s line, and appreciate their Ruby, Florence, and Holly jodhpur models. However, fit is a priority above everything else, and I realize that the RTW in their 617 last is not suitable for my feet. For now, I will have to use a stretcher to stretch the length of the chukkas. The toe box cannot be stretched.
In general, I would always promote bespoke because of the fit and attention to artisanship and detail. Bespoke is costly, but I believe that the benefit of fit is worth saving for. And C&J offers bespoke services by Dimitri Gomez.
That is not to say that RTW (ready-to-wear) are not acceptable shoes. Some may provide a suitable fit. But I would consider the fact that the shoe is built upon one last, with very specific measurements.
For readers looking to purchase RTW, I recommend trying a variety of lasts from different companies, to see what last is optimal for your feet.
C&J men’s collection: https://www.crockettandjones.com/collections/mens
C&J women’s collection: https://www.crockettandjones.com/collections/womens/womens-collection